Although Fordsburg, which is Johannesburg's "Little India", is not a recognised City Improvement District, it's been included here, as it's a world away from the urban decay it experienced years ago.
The suburb is an ethnic enclave, like no other, that has been the nucleus of Indian and Pakistani culture for years, but more recently, influenced by middle eastern immigrants from Morocco, Egypt, Jordan and Syria, calling it home.
The part of Fordsburg, where so much happens, covers only a few blocks, so it lends itself to taking a stroll and just absorbing the delights of the suburb.
The 'centre' of Fordsburg is the old Market Square, with its beautifully restored 1911 Edwardian lavatory (sadly now closed due to vandalism), bounded by Mint, Central and Albertina Sisulu (was Main) Roads.
But Fordsburg hasn't always been this way!
A laffa bread made outside the 'House of Schwarma',
watched approvingly by Nelson Mandela!
This area, like so much of Joburg, went through years of urban collapse and decay.
But, once again like so much of Joburg, it was private investment and foresight, that changed all that.
In late 2009, the area on Market Square that now hosts the market and a number of food stalls was redeveloped, laying the foundtaion for a slow rebirth!
I don't want to suggest shops or restaurants you should visit, as there are so many.
Wander through the streets, absorb the sights and smells, and stop where you'd like to.
The streets and shops are at their busiest on weekends, with Saturday the favourite for a night out.
Parking is in the roads, with car gaurds in attendance.
Use the old Market Square, on Albertina Sisulu (was Main) Road, bounded by Mint and Central Roads as a start, and go where your interest takes you.
Love the dark abayas, with the bright ceiling lights behind!
The history of Fordsburg goes back to the founding of Johannesburg.
This was one of Johannesburg's first suburbs to be developed by a private developer, and laid out in 1888.
An inadequate, small Indian township was laid out to the north of it (demolished to make way for Newtown in 1904), and a 'native' township to the north of that.
Cape Malays who migrated from Cape Town, were given land for a township to the north west - named Pageview or Fietas, and poor whites who had been attracted by the gold mines, settled in Brickfields or Burghersdorp to the north-east.
It was these racially diverse communities, living and working in close proximity to one another, that influenced Fordsburg's multiracial character.
Chicken cooked over flames at 'King Kabab House'
A number of significant political struggles took place in Fordsburg.
Following World War l (July 1914 - November 1918), the worlds economy slumped, the price of gold plummeted and the gold mining companies faced rising costs.
Their decision to reduce pay, and replace countless white mine workers with blacks, led to a general strike being called by trade unions on Monday 6th March 1922.
This intensified into open rebellion, known as the Rand Rebellion, which resulted in Martial Law being imposed!
Market Square, the headquarters of the rebellion, was rocked by government artillery fire.
The rebellion was announced over on Saturday 18th March, 1922.
Sadly the market building had to be demolished after being badly damaged!
A Johannesburg Heritage Plaque remembering the Rand Rebellion, or Battle of Fordsburg Square
The 1952 Defiance Campaign had its origins in Freedom Square, when launched on 6th April 1952.
You can read about Nelson Mandela's involvement in the Defiance Campaign, here
In the 1970's, Indians living in Pageview were forcibly removed from their land to the racially segregated area of Lenasia - 30km south of Johannesburg!
The buildings in 14th Street, a flourishing shopping node at the time, were demolished!
The National Government not only destroyed the bricks and mortar, but tragically the community with it!
One building, now the Fietas Memory-In-Action Museum,remains.
The original owners have created a wonderful, albeit small, museum, in memory of their lost past.
The Indian traders, forced out of their business premises, were relocated to the Oriental Plaza - today a flourishing shopping mecca in the heart of Fordsburg, in spite of the cruel injustices of apartheid!
The inside of Shalimar Delights - a shop selling Indian sweetmeats
Choose a number of fruit juices, mixed with freshly
squeezed/squashed sugar cane juice,
at the Juice Den
'King Kabab House' sells spicy chicken, cooked over coals
'Shaheen Sweets', sells Indian sweetmeats
Muslim abayas for sale! Again, love Hollywood on the ceiling!
The inside of Swadeshi - a Hindu prayer shop
Shalimar Delights - specially for those addicted to sugar!
Page uploaded : 15th October 2014
Page updated : 24th October 2014
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